DIY Repairs

Hard Drive Swap: iMac (20" 2008) with SSD <-> iMac (24" Early 2009) with spinner

As noted above, my 14yo son is going to start using my old 24" iMac. To make it work as best as possible, I’m going to put an SSD in it, and increase its RAM. To accomplish this, I brought home my dad’s dying 20" iMac with backlight problems, as it has a 512GB SSD. Am also hoping to use its RAM in the 24" iMac.

The 24" iMac has its original 640GB 7200rpm drive, which is of no value to me, so I’m just going to pop it into the 20", so that when I sell/gift it, it will be as complete a system as it can be.

Half way through the job: both the 20" and 24" iMacs are opened up on my dining room table. 2 big fridge magnets covered in carefully laid out screws, LCDs, bezels, and glass panels scattered around… AND - then I run out of compressed air. D’OH! The 20" is disgusting! 24" not so bad, but still needing a clean.

So off to Office Works for more air-in-a-can. Only $13! Should have got a couple of them! Paid $30 at EB Games for my last can.


24" iMac is now finished without issues - My son is very much the Cat that got the Cream - very pleased to have his first “real” computer, instead of just an iPad, or the 12" Lenovo ThinkPad he uses for school. Can hear him now talking to his friends on Discord saying “I’ve got a computer; it’s a Mac”.

Reformatted the 640GB 7200rpm drive, installed 10.11, and put it into the 20". Put it all back together. Turned it on - and - The screen lights up for about a second, then goes black. HDD is spinning up fine, and after a while I hear the Mac OS X Instal voice-over asking if I need help setting the computer up for the first time - so it’s working, just not the screen - vis-a-vis what dad told me sometimes happens. Tried restarting, zap the PRAM - same result. Also then spotted the foam for the HDD temp sensor sitting on the table… and the screen looks awful. Dust underneath.

Tried it again… put the foam on the HDD, double checked the cables going to the display, but nothing obvious. Guessing as such it’s the backlight – if you shine a light on the screen when it’s powered up, you can see the LCD is working.

I’m going to play RAM musical chairs…
20" has {2GB}
24" has {2GB} & {2GB}
MBP has {4GB} & {1GB}

When I’m finished, it will be:
20" with {1GB}
24" with {4GB} & {2GB}
MBP with {2GB} & {2GB}

This will increase the 24" iMac from 4GB to 6GB, and decrease the MBP from 5GB to 4GB. The 20" will retain minimum required to be functional.

Ah - well - turns out the 20" uses different RAM - DDR2, not DDR3. So, it still has 2GB… the MBP has 3GB, and 24" has 6GB.

And the 20" - I can see the LCD if I shine a light on the screen - so guessing that means the back lights have both died now, instead of just the bottom strip.

Oh well. I’ve offered it to a local charity that give computers to kids in need… they’ve said they’ll take it, so hopefully it will find a good home; or be recycled properly.

Now… I’m just waiting on the ATA / SATA adapter for my Cube.

G4 Cube - SSD conversion & Optical Restoration

Frustration.

Nothing about this has gone smoothly.

Easiest part [grr see below x2] was partitioning the 120GB SSD. I have broken it into 4 sections: OS 9, OS 9 Recovery, OS Tiger, OS Tiger Recovery. 30, 1, 79 and 10 GB respectively. I will clone over the OS 9 and OS X instal disks to the recovery partitions, so if something goes wrong, I can boot into either OS using the OPTION key on startup.

Sierra/Disk Utility says my 2 instal discs (OS 9 and OS 10.4) can’t be restored to the partitions. No useful reason why. Super Duper, and Carbon Copy Cloner also no luck. I can’t run the (Classic) installers from my MacPro (Intel) or the Cube itself (which is on Leopard; no Classic support)…

Therefore, I thought I’d go ahead and mount the SSD in the Cube, and use its Optical drive to instal the OS’. But - despite the optical drive working previously - it now just ejects the disks after a minute or so - doesn’t mount them… :frowning:

So… pulled out the old HDD, and the Optical drive. Dismantled the optical drive. Blew air round it. Used Q-tip/alcohol to clean the lens, and also cleaned the rubber roller that helps to eject the disk (it was filthy). And, put the drive-belt for the eject mechanism into boiling water for 20 mins to tighten it… (read that tidbit online somewhere)

Now - next big problem… the IDE to SATA board I purchased off eBay doesn’t fit! The data connector is “upside down” to what I need it to be. Check eBay, and - MOST of the adapters on eBay are the right way… and the one I bought - wrong way. :roll_eyes:

Have just ordered another one - the right way this time… 2 weeks + wait…

Finally… there was a spider skin that eventually flew out with the compressed air. Then as I was blowing more air, I found either the dead spider in a web on the IDE ribbon, or - maybe alive? Wasn’t moving… but - that’s another thing I’ll need to sort out. Hate spiders.

[grr] In the mists of time (ie pre Intel) Apple used Apple Partition Map (APM). Then came GUID Partition Table (GPT) with Intel. If you want a system to be bootable - it needs the right format. I partitioned the Cube’s SSD from my Mac Pro. Intel. So - that likely explains why I couldn’t get the OS 9 and OS Tiger disks to copy to the recovery partitions… So - the easiest part of the project so far - also completely stuffed up from lack of recent experience with PPC…

Going to rebuild the Cube, hope that the optical repairs work, re-partition the SSD using the Cube directly so it should be using APM, and then instal the OS’, and recovery drives.

If the optical drive is still MIA… shrug The Cube wasn’t able to access disks via the Network even with “share DVD/CD” turned on… Oh - the Recovery option in Disk Utility can work from a Disk Image… so hopefully I can make a disk image on the Mac Pro, copy to the Cube, and do it that way…

Meanwhile… my MacPro5,1 has a flaky optical drive… New Project… Drive keeps disappearing.

2 Likes

Tip
If you are pulling your (remaining) hair out wondering why your USB keyboard/s aren’t working with your computer… Try turn off “Rowmote”, if you are running it. Because - I’d have a lot more hair if I thought of this sooner.
Cheers

The optical drive was a complete bust - still doesn’t eject nicely, and isn’t mounting.

Pulled it back out, as well as the original internal HDD, and put the SSD into the Optical bay, with the “wrong” IDE - SATA card : there’s enough room there to be able to turn the power cable round so it’s oriented correctly. Short-gap measure til the new card arrives only. I put some electrical tape over the card, because I don’t it to touch the chassis and short out on the 12V / 5V lines.

Partitioning the disk from within the Cube’s OS has fixed the APM / GUID issue!! Woot. Finally something successful.

I couldn’t however get OS 9 to instal! Double checked… The Cube needs, at minimum, 9.0.4. My OS 9 disk is an original 9.0. So - gotta find me a slight upgrade…

(Found one!)

Then I can get the disk fully set up, and play Puyo Puyo. :slight_smile:

Mac mini 2012 - SSD upgrade

Just completed this jobby today. Took maybe 20 minutes, following OWC’s guide on YouTube. Very straight forward, with just a little bit of fiddling getting the SSD into position. The Airport antenna cable was probably the only other minor issue, purely as I don’t have a lot of experience with them, and I was worried about bending the connector.

Fired up, and god it makes a HUGE difference! (Also dropped back to Sierra from Catalina, which may have helped the OS appear a bit snappier…?)

I’ll be popping some more RAM in next, as it only has 4GB, and occasionally gives a RAM warning when playing Netflix.

That Cube

Still waiting on my second IDE-SATA board…

How did you go with your OS 9 install?

I’m going to install OS 9.2 on my new Mac mini once I’ve finished setting it all up:

Running Mac OS 9.2 on Apple Silicon/Intel Macs with Sound with UTM (QEMU) for free

Haven’t got it working… I’m going to get an eyeball on the CPU upgrade card when I open the Cube up, so I know what’s actually inside it, and see if that’s what’s stopping it from booting. I believe the Sonnet cards could use some kind of drivers to boot into OS 9…

Interesting you can boot an M1 into 9.2!

2004 PT Cruiser
Serpentine Drive Belt Replacement

I haven’t been hands-on with automotive repairs for a number of years, despite having worked pretty heavily on my old Nissan 280zx back in the day. Basically, since the kids arrived, I’ve just let the professionals handle any service and maintenance jobs. But, today I decided to try save myself $100 labour by replacing the “serpentine” belt that drives my 2004 PT Cruiser’s power steering pump and air-con compressor.

You see, earlier this week I was driving home with the kids, when I felt a thump and a shudder, followed by screeching from the engine bay. I pulled over straight away, but was not in a good spot to try to get out and look under the hood, so limped up a bit further along the road - at which point the power steering died! Never a good feeling when you suddenly have to wrench the wheel just to turn an inch.

After pulling over in a better spot, and trying to inspect the belts - I soon figured out I couldn’t even find where they were! The engine bay on the PT Cruiser is so tightly packed, and modern car design really leaves a lot to be desired in terms of accessibility! My wife came and took the kids in her car, and tailed me for the remaining 1km drive home. The car first screeched at me again for a few hundred metres, and the power steering was definitely not working, but after a minute or so it suddenly settled down and I could feel the power steering was back.

Once I was home, I tried to start the car again, and again - screeching from the belt. I googled replacing the belt, and found that it involves jacking the car up, removing the driver front wheel, and wheel arch shroud, which then gives you access to the drive belts (one for power steering/aircon, and also one for alternator). The power steering/aircon belt can easily be removed by applying some pressure to the pulley, no need to disassemble anything else. Easy. So today I gave it a shot after having to call 3 different auto parts stores to confirm someone actually had the belt in stock.

First step - brave the garden shed to get to my toolbox. Spider infested, full of junk shudder!

Next step - taught my 14yo how to safely jack a car up (after chocking the diagonally opposite wheel and loosening the lug nuts), then taking the wheel off. (And, after seeing it on YouTube - I put the wheel itself under the side of the car as an extra safety feature so if the jack fails, it will hopefully save you.)

Then, I started looking for the 4 points that secure the wheel arch shroud. As I was looking, I saw a cable dangling down from the engine bay! Wait - Cable? No… Not a cable…

Madam Rattus…

And yes - upon closer inspection after scraping her off the shroud - Mangled Madam Rattus…

So that’s what went thump!

I couldn’t see any sign of damage to the belts… and decided at that point that I’d just put the wheel back on, and get the car booked in at the mechanics to have a service… and some new belts.

The belt still gives a bit of noise on startup, but test drives so far appear to be ok.

2 Likes

That’s hilarious! I would get some dry lube to put on the belts in the mean time.

You should never get under a car that’s not on proper jack stands. I knew a guy years ago who died when the car he was under fell off the jack. And that was a proper floor jack.

1 Like

I’d have to do a proper search through the shed - I have ramps which I used to use a lot with the Zed, as the Zed (well - BOTH of them) needed a lot of work, often! But I can’t recall now if I ever picked up jack stands, or just borrowed them at one point from someone.

Considering how much work I did back in the day - it’s a shame I’ve gotten out of the habit, but then - kids take up a lot of time!